The church of Panagia Hodegetria or Aphentiko
The Church of Panagia
Hodegetria (Our Lady of the Way) or Aphentiko is the new catholicon of
Vrontochi Monastery, abutting the massive walls in the north-western part of
the lower city of Mystras.
It was built in around 1310 by an energetic abbot named Pachomius. According to
two chysobulls painted in the southwest chapel, he managed to
secure imperial grants of considerable lands in the Peloponnese
and a lifetime appointment as head of the monastery.
Hodegetria is a large,
imposing two-storey building that shows architectural innovation: while the
upper part is a five-domed cross-in-square church with a narthex
and galleries, the ground floor is a basilica divided into three
naves by arched colonnades. This church type, known as the "Mystras
mixed type", was used for other monuments in the vicinity (Pantanassa,
Agios Demetrios). The nave is built of roughly hewn stones with occasional rows
of brick, and was probably originally plastered. The east side of the building
retains its original form and exhibits stylistic elements similar to those of
contemporary monuments in Constantinople. The
sanctuary apse and pastophoria are divided into zones with windows and
blind (bricked up) arches. In the upper zone, low, flat niches with double
brick arches complete the exterior decoration. The church was surrounded by porches
arranged in a pi-shape, covered with hemispherical domes. The south
porch was converted into a burial chapel in the 14th century, when the
openings in the ground floor were walled up and turned into burial niches. Two
additional chapels were created at either end of the narthex, and a
further two at ground level in the north porch. The three-storey bell
tower to the south of the west portico is built of cloisonné masonry. On
the outside, the upper level is separated from the ground floor by a marble cornice,
and has triple-light windows adorned with brick arches. Higher up, the tower’s
exterior appearance is complemented by shallow blind niches.
The interior decoration
was sumptuous, combining sculpture decoration, marble revetments and wall
paintings. Only a few pieces of the sculpture decoration and rare revetments
have survived. The wall paintings date to different periods; some fragments are
visible in the nave, along with better preserved sections in the chapels.
In the main church, the frescoes dating to the 1410’s are obviously the work of
painters from Constantinople. They depict an
extensive Christological cycle, martyrs and saints in the side aisles, prelates
and deacons in the sanctuary, and patriarchs, prophets and apostles in the
galleries. The compositions in the chapels reveal the personality of Pachomius,
the founder. In the so-called chrysobull chapel in the south-west, four angels are
holding a mandorla around a now lost depiction of Christ, from which
beams of light descend by divine hand, holding the chrysobulls of Emperors
Andronicus II Palaeologus and Michael IX. Pachomius is buried in the northwest chapel,
where successive rows of saints’ choruses are depicted praying to Christ; Pachomius
appears on an arcosolium on the western side, offering a model of the church to
Our Lady. On the north side is the tomb of Despot Theodore I Palaeologus
(1384-1407). According to his burial mural, he became a monk and took the name
Theodoretos.
The southeast chapel is probably dedicated to the Three Hierarchs. The
decoration in it is later, and depicts the vision of Agios Ioannis Euchaita
(St. John, Bishop of Euchaita), which when interpreted led to the establishment
of a joint feast day for Basil the Great, Gregory the Theologian and St. John
Chrysostom. The frescoes can be dated to 1366 on the basis of the monogram
above the chapel entrance, representing Cyprianus, Episcopal Vicar and Abbot.
Finally, the frescoes in the south portico date to later in the 14th century;
the portico served as a burial place for rulers, as is evidenced by scenes in
the dome, burial paintings of a noble named Kaniotis and his wife in the west
arcosolium, and of another officer on the northern wall.
Under Ottoman rule the
church served as a mosque before being abandoned. In the early 19th century,
columns were removed from the colonnade to be used elsewhere, while the
central part of the dome and galleries collapsed.
Glossary (19)
catholicon:
the main church
of
a monastery.
As a rule
it
was the most imposing one, located in the center of the courtyard
chrysobull:
official public document or decree issued by the emperors of Byzantium, with an authenticating gold stamp on the silk band that accompanied it.
chapel:
small
sized church, either
independent, belonging
to a religious foundation, or part of
a larger
church.
In Byzantium chapels were often
used for burials.
cross-in-square church:
type of church where the central dome is supported by four arches covering the extremities of an equilateral cross. Lateral compartments, covered with small domes or barrel vaults, are formed at the four corners of the cross and thus the church forms a cross inscribed in a square or rectangular area. Externally the sign of the cross is also prominent because of this unique way of covering the roof.
narthex:
oblong reception area
extending
along
the western side
of a basilica. Originally the east portico
of the atrium,
it was later
incorporated into the
church, and served
as a waiting area for catechumens, who were not allowed to
attend the Divine
Liturgy.
gallery or tribune:
upper story of a church above the side naves and the narthex.
basilica:
type of large church, divided internally into three or more naves. The central nave was usually covered by a raised roof with windows that illuminated the space.
colonnade:
sequence of columns placed in and around buildings.
pastophoria:
the two rectangular or square chambers situated on either side of the apse in early
Christian
basilicas. Derived from the word pastas = “matrimonial bed”, referring to the mystical union of the faithful with Christ. The northern chamber is called the Prothesis and was used for the preparation of the Holy Gifts, while the Diakonicon on the south side was used as a sacristy.
porch:
portico formed at the front part of a building, consisting of a colonnade which supported the extension of the roof protecting the entrance.
dome:
hemispherical vault resting on a cylindrical or polygonal drum. Widely used in Christian church architecture.
cloisonne masonry:
elaborate church masonry style, in which rectangular stones are framed by one or two plinths (bricks) laid horizontally and vertically in single or double rows within the mortar of joints.
cornice:
architectural feature separating the upper and lower sections of church walls, both inside and out. A thin, projecting band, usually semicircular in cross section.
triple-light window:
window with three openings that form an arc at the top.
marble revetment:
facings of colored marble slabs that covered walls from the floor to the starting point of arches.
wall paintings or murals:
Painted scenes on a wall or ceiling surface.
Christological cycle:
scenes in the iconographic program of a church that depict the life of Christ, from the Annunciation to the Ascension.
conch (Sanctuary niche):
Niche
in the eastern end
of a basilica. Semicircular on the inside, with a horseshoe shaped, rectangular or polygonal exterior.
mandorla:
bright circular or oval shape surrounding certain depictions of Christ as a symbol of divine nature. It can also resemble a star or consist of double rhombuses. A double oval and diamond shaped mandorla denotes the presence of the Holy Trinity.
Information Texts (2)
The church of the Virgin Mary Pantanassa:
The Monastery of Pantanassa, which dominates the
eastern edge of the fortified enclosure, was the last church building project
in the city. It was founded in 1428 by the second in command of the Despotate,
protostrator John Frangopoulos, as revealed by the dedicatory verse inscription
in the western dome of the gallery and monograms in various parts
of the church. The walled area extended eastward from the median wall between
the Lower and the Upper City of Mystras. At the lowest, most prominent point,
the Byzantine dignitary funded the construction of a so-called “Mystras type”
church, combining a three nave basilica on the ground floor with a cross-in-square
church on the upper floor. The two-storey building is surrounded by a tall,
slender bell tower and two porticos arranged in an L-shape, though the western one
has not survived. At the same time, numerous decorative elements are tastefully
combined on the building’s faces. The variety of decoration is most apparent on
the east side and the four-storey bell tower. The monument shows strong western
influence and confirms the eclectic character of 15th century architecture
in Mystras. On the inside, apart from the reused sculptures and the 17th-18th
century frescoes on the ground floor, the galleries and the upper building are
covered in excellent 15th century paintings, which echo those in Hodegetria
(Aphentiko) and Peribleptos. As a whole, they are among the most important
creations in the last phase of Palaeologan painting. One of the narthex vaults
has a funerary portrait of the Byzantine ruler Manuel Lascares Chatzikes, who an
inscription records as passing away in 1445. On his head he is wearing a hat
similar to that worn by Emperor John VIII Palaeologus.
The church of Agios Demetrios:
The
cathedral of St. Demetriοs is located in the northeastern section of the Lower Town in Mystras, next to parts of the external fortifications. It is the
oldest church in Mystras, serving as the city’s cathedral and the seat of the Bishop of
Lacedaemon from the time it was
rebuilt. Tradition has it that in 1449 it hosted the coronation
of the last Byzantine emperor, Constantine XI
Palaeologus, then Despot of Mystras.The
church was probably built between 1263
(;) and 1272 by Bishop Eugene, who is
depicted on the frescoes in the diakonikon, and in its original form was
a three-aisled basilica. Between 1286 and 1315 a narthex and a gallery were
probably added to the west. Nicephorus Moschopoulos was bishop at the time (1291/2-1311/2), as
evidenced by three surviving
inscriptions which mention him and his brother Aaron. In the 15th
century Bishop
Matthew added a tribune, in an attempt to adapt the church’s plan to that of Aphentiko. The church owes its
typological peculiarity to this drastic intervention, combining a basilica on the ground floor with a composite four-column cross-in-square
church above. However, Matthew‘s extension created a heavy building of clumsy proportions, which
the
subsequent addition
of galleries and a bell tower failed to improve. Worse still, it led to the partial destruction of the
fine wall paintings in the original
basilica, decapitating figures in the Christological cycle in the central nave. The surviving sections manifest diversity in performance and stylistic features, indicating that they were completed in stages.The first phase (1272-1288) included the frescoes in the
half-dome of the sanctuary apse, showing the
Virgin Mary and a (deliberately
destroyed) prelate
at prayer, as well as most of the
frescos in the prothesis, in the north aisle
dedicated to Saint Demetrios, in the diaconicon and in the greater part of the south aisle, which
is dedicated to the Unmercenary Saints. The diaconicon has a noteworthy depiction of the Preparation of the Throne and Christ with angels, above
the figure of an All-Merciful Christ, which
reveal the high theological and artistic standards of the time. The second
phase (1291/2-1315) is associated with the work of Nicephorus, and
inclues the decapitated figures in the
Christological cycle in the nave, the figures in the western section of the south aisle, and an impressive Second Coming alongside
Ecumenical
Councils
in the narthex.
The burial representations of four Bishops on the outer north wall of the church probably
derive from the time of Matthew.The surviving sculptural decorations largely consist of reused material. The
most outstanding of these are the sculpted
frames around icon stands on the sanctuary
pillars, which date to the
late 12th century and belong to the set of frieze fragments in Agia
Sophia and the Museum
of Mystra. On the other hand, the beveled moulding with floral motifs and monogrammed medals dates to the time of Bishop Matthew.
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