The church of Panagia Hodegetria or Aphentiko
The Church of Panagia
Hodegetria (Our Lady of the Way) or Aphentiko is the new catholicon of
Vrontochi Monastery, abutting the massive walls in the north-western part of
the lower city of Mystras.
It was built in around 1310 by an energetic abbot named Pachomius. According to
two chysobulls painted in the southwest chapel , he managed to
secure imperial grants of considerable lands in the Peloponnese
and a lifetime appointment as head of the monastery.
Hodegetria is a large,
imposing two-storey building that shows architectural innovation: while the
upper part is a five-domed cross-in-square church with a narthex
and galleries , the ground floor is a basilica divided into three
naves by arched colonnades . This church type, known as the "Mystras
mixed type", was used for other monuments in the vicinity (Pantanassa,
Agios Demetrios). The nave is built of roughly hewn stones with occasional rows
of brick, and was probably originally plastered. The east side of the building
retains its original form and exhibits stylistic elements similar to those of
contemporary monuments in Constantinople. The
sanctuary apse and pastophoria are divided into zones with windows and
blind (bricked up) arches. In the upper zone, low, flat niches with double
brick arches complete the exterior decoration. The church was surrounded by porches
arranged in a pi-shape, covered with hemispherical domes . The south
porch was converted into a burial chapel in the 14th century, when the
openings in the ground floor were walled up and turned into burial niches. Two
additional chapels were created at either end of the narthex , and a
further two at ground level in the north porch . The three-storey bell
tower to the south of the west portico is built of cloisonné masonry . On
the outside, the upper level is separated from the ground floor by a marble cornice ,
and has triple-light windows adorned with brick arches. Higher up, the tower’s
exterior appearance is complemented by shallow blind niches.
The interior decoration
was sumptuous, combining sculpture decoration, marble revetments and wall
paintings . Only a few pieces of the sculpture decoration and rare revetments
have survived. The wall paintings date to different periods; some fragments are
visible in the nave, along with better preserved sections in the chapels .
In the main church, the frescoes dating to the 1410’s are obviously the work of
painters from Constantinople. They depict an
extensive Christological cycle , martyrs and saints in the side aisles, prelates
and deacons in the sanctuary , and patriarchs, prophets and apostles in the
galleries. The compositions in the chapels reveal the personality of Pachomius,
the founder. In the so-called chrysobull chapel in the south-west, four angels are
holding a mandorla around a now lost depiction of Christ, from which
beams of light descend by divine hand, holding the chrysobulls of Emperors
Andronicus II Palaeologus and Michael IX. Pachomius is buried in the northwest chapel,
where successive rows of saints’ choruses are depicted praying to Christ; Pachomius
appears on an arcosolium on the western side, offering a model of the church to
Our Lady. On the north side is the tomb of Despot Theodore I Palaeologus
(1384-1407). According to his burial mural, he became a monk and took the name
Theodoretos.
The southeast chapel is probably dedicated to the Three Hierarchs. The
decoration in it is later, and depicts the vision of Agios Ioannis Euchaita
(St. John, Bishop of Euchaita), which when interpreted led to the establishment
of a joint feast day for Basil the Great, Gregory the Theologian and St. John
Chrysostom. The frescoes can be dated to 1366 on the basis of the monogram
above the chapel entrance, representing Cyprianus, Episcopal Vicar and Abbot.
Finally, the frescoes in the south portico date to later in the 14th century;
the portico served as a burial place for rulers, as is evidenced by scenes in
the dome, burial paintings of a noble named Kaniotis and his wife in the west
arcosolium, and of another officer on the northern wall.
Under Ottoman rule the
church served as a mosque before being abandoned. In the early 19th century,
columns were removed from the colonnade to be used elsewhere, while the
central part of the dome and galleries collapsed.
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